My love affair with Paro Dzong

Before I moved to Thimphu I lived in Paro. It holds a special place in my heart; I started my life there. In my half decade-long stay there, I absolutely fell in love with the place. It was heartbreaking for my nine year old self when I had to leave Paro and my whole life as I knew it then.

I had a cousin about my age who used to stay with us, and we were in the same class in school. He was my partner in crime.

Even as five year olds, we’d be all over the place, exploring new spaces to hang out. We’d walk along the fields, swim in the rainwater lakes, look for baby fish in the river, cycle on the dirt roads, build sand-castles at a secluded sandy bank we’d discovered, and many more such outdoor adventures.

I sorely missed the outdoor life when I moved to Thimphu. Learning to live in a place full of buildings was a challenge in itself.

From whichever place we’d hang out in Paro, the Dzong was always visible. That’s why, even now when I think of Paro the first sight that comes to my mind is the Dzong.

I changed two schools in Paro; the latter was called Rinpung Primary School. It was near town, on the way to the Paro Dzong. We had to cross the wooden cantilever bridge at Nemey Zampa to reach the school.

Some part of the Dzong was always visible from the school. It was as if the Dzong was watching us as we walked to school and back, a majestic and benevolent gaze down at us tiny kids. It was a very comforting and humbling experience.

There was this orchard just below the Dzong where there were pear and walnut trees. It was a favourite place for students to have lunch. The fruit trees were also really popular with the students. A stone thrown into the pear tree would result in a rain of small pears, locally known as “Lli”. As smaller boys of the pack, we would be the ones who’d fumble for the fallen pears rather than throw stones at the tree; our throw just wouldn’t reach and our aim was rather bad.

And every once in a while someone would should, “Ap Dorji honh dey” (Ap Dorji is coming) and we’d scatter in all directions. Now I’m not so sure Ap Dorji ever came chasing us, or if he was the caretaker, or if he existed at all.

Dzongs were built on vantage points overlooking the entire valley. It was their purpose to keep a watch over everything around them. Paro Dzong watched me grow up, and I grew up under its comforting presence.